The opening collection up for the Paris runway review for October 4th, 2008 is Wolfgang Joop's lively and splashy Spring line for Wunderkind. For Spring 09 Joop's floral and graphic creations are slightly more refined than the typical designer whose passion lies in youthful romantic clothing. The spirit of fearless fun is always present in Joop's creations however they are more thoughtful and tailored than the standard fare. Jackets, dresses, skirts and suits were splashed with bold patterns and red flowers. Bright polka dots also made an appearance adding punch to flowing designs and tailored seperates. If your taste leans towards eye catching fun clothing this collection is most certainly worth a look.

When it comes to his own collections John Galliano creates his visions without interference, he simply, executes. This often means that his RTW shows are dismissed as flights of fancy and the clothes within are not usable in the working persons life. That type of thinking is simply too lazy to do Galliano's work justice. In his collection for Spring/Summer 09 there are a great many pieces which can add vitality and punch to a woman's wardrobe. Strong sleeve details accented flowing blouses and dresses, brilliant red glowed from jackets which had trench coat styling with detailed fabric embellishments. Towards the end of the show Galliano's creative vision focused on pastel and pattern in evening wear. Sheer flowing gowns radiated a diaphanous elegance that will stop traffic anywhere they appear. In his Galliano collections John Galliano coats many forms with his style and he prefers to utilize color and detail tailoring over the more modern trend of unconventional shapes to create his unique signature. That trend continues with his Spring Summer 09 collection.

Context is everything; when viewed in light of the recent Gaultier work for Hermes, this coming SS 09 collection could be viewed as a departure. In the equine tradition of the house's history however it makes perfect sense. The roughness of the buckskin cowboy derived pieces in the opening of the show took me by surprise. The last few offering by John Paul Gaultier for Hermes have been so elegant and refined that the rawness of buckskin and fringe seemed disturbingly odd to me. As the models continued to mosey Gaultier's work down the runway it all made sense and the more refined pieces began to appear. It is the undeniable luxury of the fabrics and finish that make Hermes, Hermes. Gaultier has been so flawless in his execution of the strong vision that makes Hermes because he has lovingly embraced the luxury that its clients expect.

(My apology for the lateness of this post, I styled 2 shoots this weekend and I simply had no time.)

Seth F